Grand Canyon, Second Day

This morning we were going to hike first, in the cool of the day, and then chill out after. We walked to the South Rim, watching the mule-riding group about to descend the Bright Angel Trail. We soon discovered that nothing was open, yet, and we would have to limit our explorations of facilities to external views for awhile.

We ended up walking from Maswik Lodge to the South Rim, along the Rim Trail to Bright Angel Trailhead, Kolb Studio, Lookout Studio, Bright Angel Lodge, El Tovar Lodge, Hopi House, Verkamp's Visitor Center, and The Trail of Time, ending at Yavapai Geology Museum. At this time of day, we were pleased to encounter very few tourists.

Kolb Studio. This 1904 building was added to on several occasions and ended up with 5 stories; but, it was never anchored to the canyon wall until the park service took it over, around 1990. And, it practically sits on one of the fault lines in the park. We were told that there was a quake here, quite recently.

South Rim

Lookout Studio. This was built by Fred Harvey and Santa Fe Railroad to compete with and drive the Kolbs out of business. It did not work.

Lookout Studio

On the way back along the Rim Trail, we went through the places that hadn't opened yet on the way up, stopping at Bright Angel Lodge for a cappuccino--it was so hot we had to wait to drink it. Chuck then had a double-scoop ice cream chaser of Butterfinger and Espresso Chip.

Suicidal Squirrel. I am sure this is not the same guy from yesterday. Apparently, times are tough at the Canyon this year.

Deer in the Front Yard

Lookout Looking

Relaxing

El Tovar Lodge

Hopi House

We arrived at the Bright Angel Lodge restaurant as it opened for lunch at 11:15am. Claire had the Spicy Santa Fe Lettuce Wrap and Southwestern Corn Chowder soup. Her eyes were bigger than her stomach; so, we got our first squirrel bag, so she could take it back to our room refrigerator and finish the wrap at her leisure.

Claire's Spicy Wrap Lunch

Chuck enjoyed the Southwestern Beef Stew in Bread Bowl. The picture-taking was delayed due to excessive hunger; so you miss the image of stew overflowing the bread onto the plate.

Chuck's Beef Stew in Bread Bowl

We especially enjoyed the current Grand Canyon art exhibit at the Kolb Museum.

We walked back to the room to deposit Claire's lettuce wrap and to download pictures, while waiting for the afternoon lecture on the human history of the Canyon.

Wild Ones from Brazil. I am not sure if this was the same bunch we encountered earlier on the trip; Claire says they are different. They were hanging outside the Vercamp Visitor Center where we were to begin our pm walking tour. We were impressed by the diversity of the group--there were males and females, young and old, bikers and squares in the group. It was comical to see these rough riders spraying on gobs of sunscreen. Where's the pride of "manliness?"

The Ranger, A.J., was wonderful. He was not used to being at the rim, he spends most of his time at the bottom of the Canyon, at Phantom Ranch. So, the planned 20 minute lecture-walk lasted an hour and a quarter--but no one complained. He covered the human history from 10,000 years ago to the present day, emphasizing the importance of water throughout that time: With the exception of the time period at the end of the Ice Age, this has been a (semi-arid) desert area, surrounded by deserts on three+ sides.

At the end of the talk, which ended at Kolb studio, we walked a short distance down Bright Angel Trail to the window in the Rock. At that point, we decided to call it a day and retreated back to our room.

Kolb Brothers. They did photo portraits of visitors; they did landscapes; they photographed themselves, as in this photo; and they did the first commercial action movie--themselves running the Colorado rapids in a boat. One brother lived in this studio until his death at 95 in 1976.

Bright Angel Trail Window

We became fascinated with Mary Colter and decided to put in a bit about her:
Mary Colter began her adult life as a school teacher in the 1890's. She became an architect, designer and decorator for the Fred Harvey company in 1902. Her designs were unique for their time because she used the cultural heritage of the region rather than imitate European styles. She was also influenced by Frederick Law Olmstead--she thought that structures in places of natural beauty should not detract from their surroundings, but should, rather, fit in, using vernacular architecture.

Mary Colter

She had a relationship with the Harvey organization that lasted about 46 years, designing hotels, restaurants and union station facilities. This was quite unusual for a woman in those days. She designed many of the buildings at the Grand Canyon, including Hermit's Rest (1914), Lookout Studio (1914), Phantom Ranch (1922), the Watchtower (1932) and Bright Angel Lodge (1916, 1935). Her buildings have their roots in the American past and in the Indian and Spanish heritage of the land she loved.

The color of the Great Canon itself is red, a light Indian Red, and the material sandstone and red marble and is in terraces all the way down. ~ Thomas Moran, Grand Canyon Landscape Painter, American Hudson River School

Grand Canyon, First Day

We were up early, as usual, showered, gobbled down our "free" Quality Inn breakfast, shopped at Safeway for fruit, sandwiches and ice, waved goodbye to Flagstaff and were on the road to the Grand Canyon by 8am!

We decided last night to enter the Park by the east entrance: The distance was not much greater than using the south entrance and it was reputed to be a more scenic route. As we drove toward the Visitor Center, we stopped at almost every overlook and pullout; but, we were eventually guilty of resorting to drive-bys as the scenes began to look very familiar.

Our first spot on the drive in from the eastern edge of the Park was Desert View. This has the Watchtower, designed by famous Southwest architecht Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, was built in 1932 by the Fred Harvey Company and Santa Fe Railroad. This tower attempts to recreate the "strange prehistoric towers found scattered over large areas of the Southwest." The structure includes a Kiva (Sacred Ceremonial Chamber); a kiva in the home of a modern day Native American serves as lodge room, meeting hall and place of worship. The Watchtower also includes a Snake Altar displaying objects used in the Snake Dance, a prayer for rain. The walls and ceilings are covered with representations of legends important to the peoples of this area.

The Watchtower

Jaw-Dropping View

Guess Who?

Guess What?

Ancient Dwelling Area on the Colorado. We saw this site from farther away while on the North Rim. This was fertile land near water and was populated for many, many years.

We missed one opportunity for picnic tables and redoubled our efforts so as to not miss the next one--the only signage was a small one visible only as you were upon it: consequently we flew on by.

Our Picnic Lunch

We finally arrived at the Grand Canyon Visitor Center. First, we had trouble finding a place to park--this had not happened recently; but, we are now at one of the most popular tourist destinations in the US. I saw a car with a man behind the wheel and the brake lights on while his wife was rummaging through the trunk. I missed them until it was too late to back up; but, we caught them on the second round: "Are you leaving?"

The crowd situation was no better in the counter queues on the inside of the Center. Claire noticed that there would be a showing of an informative movie in 5 minutes; so, we hustled inside to get good seats. The most exciting part was running the Colorado rapids in Kayaks and rubber rafts. It was narrated by Peter Coyote; we always enjoy hearing his voice.

Leaving the theater by the entrance, we beat the crowd back into the information lobby and found a Ranger who was free. He was helpful in answering our questions. I must note that it is somewhat challenging to figure out what to do in what order and in what time frame. Claire has spent many hours on this and we were still uncertain, today on how best to spend our time. But, we figured out something that worked for us.

South Rim View

View

Man on a Rock. We were astonished to see someone out there. We thought this guy had jumped across a minor, but scary, chasm to reach this outlook. But, when he returned to safety, we noticed that he climbed down out of sight and then up again.

View

We next walked out to Mather Point, one of the most popular of sites within the Park.

The Crowds Begin

View

Where's Waldo?

Intrepid Explorer

Traveling Companion

Then we drove to Maswik Lodge to park our car and to try to check-in early. We got the parking space and partially checked-in; but, they could not give us a key, as the room was not ready. We recommend this approach: You can get parking early and only have to wait for the key, upon later check-in.

After that, we walked a quarter mile to the Red Line Shuttle Bus stop. (There are 3 lines in the Park: Red, Blue and Orange. Red goes to the western end of the South Rim, Hermit's Rest, with stops at various points along the way. The Blue line travels around the Village and Visitor Center, providing access to the restaurants, hotels, parking lots and campgrounds. The Orange Line provides the only access to Yaki Point and South Kaibab Trailhead; it is the shortest route. The shuttles, of course, supplant cars to a very large extent, reducing the pollution that puts a veil over almost every scene in the Park. The Park Guide lays this out quite clearly--pick one up upon entering and at many shops or lodges.

We got off the Red Line at Hopi Point, walked 2 miles to Mohave Point and climbed on the next shuttle for the end of the line: Hermit's Rest, where we had a delicious and refreshing frozen strawberry juice bar before taking the shuttle back to our original starting point.

View of the Unwashed Masses from Beyond Mather Point. We know know that we are among crowds: South Rim has 5 million visitors annually.

View

Suicidal Squirrel. I swear he looked like he was ready to jump. Maybe he had not stowed away enough acorns for the coming Winter.

Ancient Tree, Familiar View. I take this to be a bristlecone pine; some of these in the Sierra Nevada in CA are the oldest living things on earth, some as old as 5,000 years!

On the Trail

In the Moment

Daredevil Trekker

We walked back to the Lodge, were assigned our keys, got settled in our room, read for a bit and then walked back to the lodge for dinner. We had the baked chicken plate with side dishes of pilaf (plain rice) and mixed veggies (overcooked dramatically) for Claire and baked potato and pilaf for Chuck. I also had a refreshing glass of cranberry juice. I forgot to mention that I did have a frozen yogurt snack twice, today; Claire indulged only once--she has far more discipline than I.

After dinner, Claire read, helped determine which pictures were blog-worthy and kept me from distorting the sequence of the day's events while providing invaluable editorial guidance. For once, she beat me to bed and to sleep, while I finished notes for the blog.

I am currently reading and enjoying Breakfast With Buddha, a novel about an ordinary American's car trip with a Rinpoche--an honorific used in Tibetan Buddhism. It literally means "precious one," and is used to address or describe Tibetan lamas or respected teachers. The American protagonist is frightfully typical, I think, in his reluctance to accept another's spiritual advice. I recognize this pridefulness in myself. But, about half-way through the book, his stance seems to be wavering. I am quite curious to see how this turns out.


There can be nothing in the world more beautiful than ...the Canyon of the Colorado...and our people should see to it that they are preserved for their children and their children's children forever, with their majestic beauty all unmarred. ~ Theodore Roosevelt

A Day in Flagstaff

We awoke this morning with only a few goals in mind, but with a host of backup options. We planned to go first to the Flagstaff Visitor Center and then on the Red Mountain Hike, followed by a caffeinated drink and a tour of the Arboretum. We managed to do all that, but nothing more. Maybe another time...

Claire at the start of the Red Mountain Hike.

Trail sign: Pretty much says it all.

There was a 30 mile drive from town to the start of the hike--the information we received from several sources all underestimated the distance. But, it was worth it. The drive took about 45 minutes.

Along the Trail

We felt the guidebook undersold the trail--a blessing. We were quite thrilled with the sights along the way. We had expected more of a cinder cone with a rim over which we would peer. We did not get that; but, we got much more.

What a Great Trail

Climbing the Stairway to Heaven

Wildflowers in September

Red Mountain Cone

Slots

"In a canyon, in a cavern..."

The cone into which we hiked is open on the west side and eventually ends when you go as far in an easterly direction as the trail and the cone allow.

In the Cone

Peekaboo

Volcanic Creations

The entire hike took about 1.5 hours, but this includes stopping to admire the scenery and take lots of pictures. It is a mild hike; even I did not complain. We regard this scenic hike as a highlight of the trip.

Crevice

Returning to town we headed straight for the Rendezvous Cafe and its famous hot drink--for famously cool Flagstaff mornings: The Hot Monte. It is basically a cappuccino, with chocolate and cayenne pepper. We enjoyed it, despite a pleasant (not cool) day. But, Claire thought she would not want it on a daily basis.

Hot Monte at the Rendezvous Cafe in the Monte Vista Hotel

Inside View of the Hotel Monte Vista

Downtown Flagstaff, Old Town

Solar Compactor--Why don't we have these?

Walking around Old Town, we noticed batches of sponsorship bricks embedded in the plaza. There were four large groups with of bricks with the name 'Babbitt' on them. Also, we noticed a number of 'Babbit' stores in the area--covering all kinds of enterprises.

Heritage Plaza

Next, we drove about 5 miles to the Arboretum. Claire loves trees and flowers and walks the UC Davis Arboretum almost every day at home. Our docent, Karen, was excellent; she had been here only four years, but had done lots of paid and volunteer work that prepared her for this volunteer position in her retirement. She mentioned at the end that she and her husband moved here because her daughter is the Director of Research and two of her grandchildren are here. Also, she found the climate milder than in New Hampshire, her prior home.

The Arboretum

There is a species of squirrel that is found only here and on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon--the Abert Squirrel. You may recall that there is a similar situation for the Kaibab squirrel on the North Rim.

Abert Squirrel

We had scouted out eateries earlier in the day and decided to return to Criollo Latin Kitchen: They had a varied menu and Happy Hour specials. Remembering that Happy Hour began at 3pm, and not having eaten since 7am this morning, we drove directly to Criollo's for a late lunch-early dinner. The food was great, the server--Alexandra--pleasant and helpful, and the Margaritas were most welcome after a strenuous day of enjoying ourselves; besides, we were tired by now.

Criollo Latin Kitchen

Margaritas

Claire and her second Margarita

Claire's burrito was so good that while she was moaning over it I heard the woman at the next table tell the waitress: "I'll have what she's having!" It was a roasted mushroom burrito with sweet corn, chevre, rice, black beans, herb crema and mixed greens.

Claire's Dinner: Roasted Mushroom Burrito

I was not very hungry and wanted to try the Happy Hour fish taco appetizer and a Margarita. The mole sauce was delicious and the taco, though small, was quite good. Besides, I knew I would follow up with a slice of cherry pie a la mode at a cafe I had scoped out earlier in the day.

Chuck's Snack: Fish Taco Appetizer

We both agree that Flagstaff, at 8,000 feet, is a fun, comfortable place to visit. They have a great variety of restaurants and plenty to do. They also have seasons and a great climate, not to mention a university atmosphere (Northern Arizona University) and lots of culture.

Returning to the motel and both ready to collapse, Claire generously offered to go through the pictures with me and then to edit and reformat them for the blog. I napped. Then I was able to upload and label them for publication. Now, I am ready to join her in reading. Failing that, I expect to sleep very soundly, tonight.

Expenses for the day: $148. This represents a downward trend, for the moment, even though gas, food and lodging are included.

I still find each day too short for all the thoughts I want to think, all the walks I want to take, all the books I want to read and all the friends I want to see. ~ John Burroughs