Art Walk in Chicago

By Claire

We're tired.  We've been going strong since Sunday and we'd love to slow down; but there is so much to see!  Our day began with a search for a UPS store.  My wonderful walking shoes had started squeaking so I did an online chat with Zappos, my favorite shoe store, and they emailed me a free shipping label and sent another pair to our hotel here in Chicago, all at no cost to me.  I received the new shoes, but needed to return the flawed pair.  With all our technology--iPhones, iPad and laptop, it's pretty easy to find things using the GPS maps.  I located a UPS store near Millennium Park, our first stop of the day.  However, nothing is ever really that simple, is it?  We walked several blocks, following the little blue bubble on the iPhone--which showed our location on the e-map.  We couldn't find any sign of a UPS store.  We finally walked into a CVS Pharmacy and they pointed across the street--not the street that is listed, but the cross street.  Turns out UPS was located inside a hotel and used its address; but the access was on a different street.  We were glad to get that chore taken care of. 

We walked over to the park to see the fountains.  I just marvel at all the wonderful things to see in this great city.  This is one of the Crown Fountains, where children can splash in the shallow water between giant faces projected on video screens. Her face moved, she smiled and then spit out water.

 

We've been planning a visit to the Art Institute of Chicago and wanted to get there early--to avoid crowds.  As it turns out, there just aren't any crowds this time of year.  We had American Gothic to ourselves.  I never knew that the man and woman posing for the artist, Grant Wood, were a dentist and the artist's sister.  It was an immediate sensation and has been parodied hundreds of times.

The Modern Wing was fantastic.  The light and air was really wonderful. The museum is a huge place; so even though we tried to have a plan, we kept retracing our steps.  I think we asked for help at least 6 times.  It's not an easy place to navigate.  I thoroughly enjoyed the Jeanne Gang architectural exhibit. She's the woman who designed the Aqua Building with the wave design and used a GPS to determine the proper alignment of the waves.  This is a close up of a section of the building.

In front of Marc Chagall's America Windows

 

Another view of the amazing Frank Gehry-designed Pritzker Music Pavillion.

 

We also wanted to see Chicago neighborhoods, so we dragged ourselves onto the hop-on, hop-off trolly for a thrill ride through the west side (not!).  For part of the trip we were the only ones on board.  One time the driver/guide didn't seem to notice that the light had turned green--he simply sat there, stupefied and silent.  He finally took off as the light turned yellow.  I can't imagine a more trying job.  It's not like he gets a lot of feedback, or response from his audience, and he has to do it over and over again all day--day after day. 

This is another design by the German architect, Bertrand Goldberg, who did the corn cobb buildings.  I find it interesting but I don't like it.  The windows are too small and there are no balconies.  There are no square angles in nature so he didn't believe buildings should have them either.

 

We drove through the south side to get to China Town, Greek Town and Little Italy, all apparently on the west side. I'm glad we saw the area and glad we weren't walking; but there was nothing of interest that warranted getting out and then having to wait for the next bus to arrive.  

Once we were back at our starting point, Millennium Park, we decided to grab some lunch.  We wanted to try another chain we've seen around here, The Corner Bakery.  They were very much like Panera Bread, with the usual soup, salad and/or sandwich combo.  I ordered a really fantastic spinach salad--with strawberries, cranberries, grapes, oranges and goat cheese--and a cup of vegetarian three lentil soup.  Chuck had a bowl of chili--no picture necessary.

 

Next up, The rookery and the library.  Along the way we came to the colorful corner. All four corners were painted by art students, each in a different color.

 

 

This is the Rookery.  Designed by Daniel Burnham and John Root in 1888, this was one of Chicago's (and the World's) first commercial skyscrapers. In 1905, Frank Lloyd Wright was commissioned to renovate the interior of this building.  It was more about trend than any real need to upgrade the building or its amenities.  He removed much of the iron and terra cotta detailing on the central staircase, balconies, and walls, and replaced it with strong geometric patterns.  He encased the iron columns in white marble that were gilded with the Arabic motif found at the entrance.  He added bronze chandeliers with prismatic glass.

 

Another architect,  William Drummond, brought in an Art Deco aesthetic in 1931 and divided the two-story entrance lobby into separate floors.  Following Wright's example, he covered any exposed surface with marble, gilded and incised with stylistic bird motifs.  He added a staircase that started at the second floor and protruded into the central light court.  It's quite spectacular and well worth seeing.  

This shows how the iron columns were encased in marble.

 

 

Did I mention we were tired?  Somehow, because everything we wanted to see was only a few blocks apart, we were determined to get to each one.  The library was a nice surprise.  We made our way up to the 9th floor where the skylight lit up the area.

 

 This is the 9th floor where a few people were at tables working.

 

The Chicago library has a book project similar to Davis and many other cities.  This is a good one--we loved this book.

Now at Grant Park, which runs into Millennium Park we found Spear Man, one of two sculptures.  He does not actually hold a spear; this is an anti-war statement.

 

Lake Michigan, next to Grant Park. They have beautiful sandy beaches around the lake.

 

This is Buckingham Fountain, built in 1927. It is one of the largest fountains in the world, was inspired by the Latona Fountain at Versailles, and is meant to allegorically represent Lake Michigan.

 

Frank Gehry designed the BP Bridge, which resembles a serpent winding its way around and across the park--another amazing piece of art and sculpture that has a purpose.  Many of the features in Millennium Park have corporate names because the entire park was privately financed.

 

We were lucky to be able to listen to a music rehearsal for a performance later tonight.  The sound was great.  This is a free performance by Celtic Connections presents TransAtlantic Sessions; but, we were too tired to even consider staying on for several hours til the start of the concert.

 

Our final stop of the day, before we dropped to our knees and begged for mercy, was the Chicago Cultural Center.  This is the largest Tiffany Dome in the world.

 

This chandelier is also by Tiffany.

We made the wise decision to walk back to our hotel rather than endure the lame jokes and endless ride back to our stop.  Have I mentioned that I think it was a BAD idea to go with this bus thing?  We're back at our hotel now, resting up for our last day, tomorrow, when we will catch the bus one last time to our final destination.  I'm not sure how many miles we walked today; but it felt like at least 10.  Luckily, my new shoes were up to the task.  I have to admit, walking is my favorite way to see the world and the best way to really immerse yourself in a city.

Now shall I walk or shall I ride?
'Ride,' Pleasure said;
'Walk,' Joy replied.
~ W. H. Davies (author of Autobiography of a Supertramp and the poem, Leisure)

Hyde Park

By Chuck

Today was warmer than yesterday, at 77°; but, it was less sunny and windy. It was a gorgeous day for touring. The Second City has the highest gas prices in the U.S., according to our tour bus guide; fortunately, we filled up before driving here; and we don't drive again until we leave on Friday.

Yesterday, we considered whether to purchase a 3 day touring pass from Double Decker and Trolley Tours or a 3 day Chicago Transit Authority Visitor Pass. We decided on the former, since we not only get around, but benefit from a lecture while we patronize the hop on-hop off opportunities. And, we get a free T-shirt and can take 5 distinct tours.

This went very well, except for: missing the first bus this morning because it stopped across the street from where the kiosk was located; having to wait 45 minutes on both ends of the trip to Hyde Park, since we barely missed the connection each time; and having to endure non-stop jokes on the final leg of the return trip home, which took over one and one-half hours, when we were thinking less than 30 minutes. Nevertheless, I am still glad we chose this option; Claire thinks it was a mistake. This is our impatient natures surfacing once again.

Pablo Picasso sculpture in downtown Chicago. Windy City has more outdoor sculpture than any other U.S. city.

 

President Obama's 6,100 sq. ft. house in Kenwood, a Chicago suburb right on the line with Hyde Park.

 

The Secret Service is on duty 24/7 outside of Obama's house. There are barricades along the street, preventing drive by viewing from the front of the house. We rode by his barber's shop in the bus, but were unable to stop. Both Kenwood and Hyde Park are absolutely gorgeous with one stunning home after another.  We were surprised by the very high hedges and closely planted trees surrounding Obama's house.  I wonder, has it always been like that?  It's almost a fortress.

This is Muhammed Ali's place in the Chicago suburb of Hyde Park.

 

 Louis Farrakhan, the leader of the Black Muslims, also has a house in Hyde Park.

 

The Museum of Science and Industry. The only building left over from the 1893 Columbian Exposition, which celebrated the 400th anniversary of Columbus' "discovery" of America.  I am currently reading The Devil in the White City, an excellent story about the Exposition.  We walked along the Midway Plaisance on our way to this museum.  It really helped us visualize the enormous scope of the project. 

 

Robie House, Frank Lloyd Wright's last Prairie Style home, completed in 1910. This is located in Hyde Park, more or less surrounded by the University of Chicago.  When asked about the low ceiling height of his Prairie homes, FLW, at 5'8" commented that anyone over 6 feet tall was just wasted space.

 

 Entering the campus of the University of Chicago.

 

Although there is no unifying architectural theme here, the campus is quite lovely with an appealing mix of old and new buildings.

 

 The top of this structure caught our collective eye.

 

 Just another ivy-covered hall on campus.

 

 Claire, resting on a bridge over a lovely pond.

 

This is the new addition to the library, extending underground. We tried to enter the library, but were unwilling to wait in line for the required day pass to be issued.

After roaming the campus, we were famished. We made our way back to an attractive deli we had noted on the way in.

 I had a Roast Beef on Rye--delicious.

 

 Claire had the Veggie Wrap. She was delighted with her healthy choice.

 

 The Prudential Building in downtown Chicago. Obama election headquarters is on the 35th floor.

 

This is the Aqua Building by Jeanne Gang; it is the tallest building in the world designed by a female architect, and one of the loveliest in Chicago, regardless of gender. The variations in outside surface represent the waves of Lake Michigan. In order to get the offsets of the waves right, they had to use a GPS.

 

Our bus guide had to periodically duck when passing under overpasses, the El, and numerous tree branches. Despite riding backwards, he seemed to always know when to kneel or sit to avoid bodily injury.

 

Claire realized today that the picture of the former Marshall Fields warehouse, featured in yesterday's blog, was not the store where she futilely purchased a pair of pants that were never delivered to her at the tender age of 16. She recognized the clock on the corner, the store, and her error, as we rode through the city, today.

 

Ornamental column on one of the many bridges crossing the Chicago River with 150' fountain spray from the Buckingham Memorial Fountain in the background. 

 

Another lovely Chicago scene as we are finishing up the bus tour.

One of the things that continues to impress us about Chicago is the sense of openness we experience almost everywhere. We are told that Chicago has more park space than any city in the U.S. Not only is the downtown area blessed with numerous open areas, but each residential district has its own park.

Space is the breath of art. ~ Frank Lloyd Wright

Chicago

By Claire

I had high expectations for this town and they were more than met.  I love this place!  The weather probably helps--it was 69° with clear blue skies, all the better to see the unique and gorgeous architecture on our Shoreline Boat Tour.  But, the most important event of the day was breakfast.  Finally, my kind of food.  We brought our muesli, berries, bananas and yogurt up to our room, and this will feed us for the next 4 mornings.

 

Start of our uncrowded boat tour

 

Beautiful skyline

 

Formerly, the largest building in the world; I believe this used to be the Marshall Fields Department Store.  If so, I was there back in 1965.  I found some corduroy pants that I loved but needed a different size.  They promised to ship them to me.  I never got them, even after repeated phone calls and letters.  I wonder what happened?

 

Very cool townhouse on the Chicago River

 

 Nice reflection

 

These are the "corn cob" buildings, built back in the sixties, also known as Marina City.  I absolutely love them.  The goal was to create a place where the tenants would have everything they needed right at hand.  They had their own shops, restaurants, marina, movie theatre and hotel.  I love the balconies and the parking garages.

Oprah Winfrey and Tom Cruise, among others, lived in Lake Point Tower, designed back in the 1920's by Mies van der Rohe; it was ahead of its time, as they had yet to invent bendable steel. John Heinrich and George Schipporeit, who were both students of Mies, finally built it in the sixties.

 

After lunch, we walked to Millennium Park.  This is Millennium Park's centerpiece, the Frank Gehry-designed Pritzker Music Pavillion.

 

 I love sculpture, especially when it is fun.  Cloud Gate is lots of fun. 

There we are, in the center, reflected in Cloud Gate.

 

Here's a self-portrait.  See our reflected back views?

I think we must have walked about 6 miles by now; but we still decided to walk over to the Sears Tower (now Willis Tower), the world's tallest building for 25 years, and take a trip up to the 103rd floor Sky Deck.  $35 later, we were at the top.  The express elevator takes you up in just 90 seconds! Our ears popped along both the ascent and descent.

We were wearing down by now--4pm or so--but it was such a clear day, we wanted to take advantage.  It wasn't even very crowded, something we have really been enjoying on this entire trip.  September must be the best time of year.  Here are various views from around the Sky Deck. The blue expanse is Lake Michigan, of course.

 

 

The green building with the gold top is called the champagne bottle.  

 

Chuck walked out on the "Ledge," a nerve-wracking and exciting vantage point.  You can see tiny people down on the street, 103 floors directly below you.

 

 Heading home

I feel like I really saw a lot today, and got a real feel for the city.  It feels uncrowded, clean and gleaming, spacious even.  There is noise, as in any city; but this seemed more subdued.  Fewer horns honking and traffic was fairly normal, compared to most big cities.  This is another place I could easily live, if it weren't for the weather!

Eventually, I think Chicago will be the most beautiful great city left in the world. ~ Frank Lloyd Wright